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The Glacier Express is marketed as the “Slowest Express Train in the World.” It connects Zermatt and St. Moritz through some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet: 291 bridges, 91 tunnels, and the stunning Oberalp Pass.
It is a bucket-list experience. But it comes with a hefty price tag and a big problem: Reservations.
A mandatory seat reservation costs CHF 49 (approx. $55) on top of your ticket price. In summer, these sell out months in advance. Plus, the panoramic windows are sealed shut—great for looking, terrible for taking photos without glare.
Here is the secret: You don’t need to take the Glacier Express to see the views.
You can ride the exact same rails, see the exact same mountains, and cross the exact same bridges on regular regional trains.
Here is how to do the DIY version.
The “Local” Route Strategy
The Glacier Express runs direct from Zermatt to St. Moritz. The local trains do not run direct, so you have to switch trains. That is the only “catch.”
The Route (Zermatt to St. Moritz):
- Zermatt ➡️ Visp: Take the local Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn.
- Visp ➡️ Andermatt: Change trains here. The ride up to Andermatt is steep and stunning.
- Andermatt ➡️ Disentis/Mustér: This section crosses the famous Oberalp Pass (the highest point).
- Disentis/Mustér ➡️ Chur: Change to the Rhaetian Railway (RhB). You pass through the Rhine Gorge (“Swiss Grand Canyon”).
- Chur ➡️ St. Moritz: Cross the iconic Landwasser Viaduct (the curved bridge you see on Instagram).
Total changes: 3-4.
Total stress: Low (Swiss trains run like clockwork).
Why the Local Train is Actually BETTER
1. No Reservation Fees
On regional trains, seat reservations are not required. You just hop on with your standard ticket or rail pass. You save roughly $55 per person right there.
2. Windows That Open!
This is huge for photographers. On the Glacier Express, you are shooting through glass (hello, reflections). On many older regional trains on this route, you can slide the window down and get that crystal-clear shot of the Alps and the curved viaducts.
3. Less Crowded
The Glacier Express is packed with tour groups. The local trains are often half-empty, especially in First Class. You can move from left to right to see the best views on both sides.
4. Hop-On, Hop-Off Freedom
See a cute village? Want to stop for lunch in Andermatt? On the direct express, you can’t get off without losing your seat. On local trains, you have total freedom.
Do I Need a Special Ticket?
No.
- Point-to-Point: You can buy a standard ticket from Zermatt to St. Moritz. It is valid on both the express and regional trains.
- Swiss Travel Pass: The route is fully covered. Just show your pass.
- Eurail / Interrail: Fully covered (unlike the Glacier Express reservation fee).
Summary
If you want champagne service and a 3-course meal served at your seat, book the Glacier Express. It is a luxury experience.
But if you want to save money, take better photos, and travel at your own pace, take the regional trains. The mountains don’t care which train you are on—they look majestic either way.
